Showing posts with label mulch. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mulch. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 11, 2020


Create a No-Maintenance Garden



Ten years ago I created a 36x24 flower garden bed for a friend. He had no clue of gardening or plants and even less time to do any planting or watering. He insisted to have a ‘no-maintenance’ flower bed - that I built on top of a former ugly patch of lawn.
The way I created it, this flower bed really became a ‘no-maintenance’ part of the front yard - and a fabulous one! Copy how I did it:

First, I edged the garden bed border eight inches deep and wide to avoid any grass to creep in. I collected cardboards on garbage day from all over the street.




Cardboard, Cardboard, and More Cardboard
In case you don’t have enough, just use very thick layers of newspaper (even rarer these days : )   Don’t leave any gaps between the boards, remove the plastic that holds the boxes together - and water the boards very thoroughly.  They should be more than soaking wet.  You don’t want to be that person chasing runaway cardboard caught by the wind.  The cardboard will suppress the weeds and eventually break down into the soil, adding useful organic matter.




Compost, Compost, and More Compost
A thick layer of compost went on the cardboard sheets, then the black garden soil, mixed with lots of composted manure. Chicken, cow, or sheep manure are all good for that matter. 
I must admit, I am a compost geek.  Even on road trips I collect organic stuff (Banana peels, fruit waste, tissues, eggshells, napkins, or teabags) and place them in paper bags to bring it home to my compost.  Composting organic kitchen and garden waste produces rich humus and improves the soil.  By composting you reduce the amount of waste sent to landfill sites, thus reducing greenhouse gases.  You will also save money and your health on chemical fertilizers.  Altogether were the compost, the soil and the manure ca. 15 inches thick when I started to plant flowers and small shrubs.




No-Maintenance Plants 
The planting bed was half in full sun and the other portion laid in dabbled half shade most of the day.  In the full sun part, I planted Rosa Rugosa, very hardy roses.  Also lots of Yarrow, Lavender, Salvia, and Purple Coneflowers - seven to nine plants of each, and each plant type in a group.  For lots of colors and blooms during the early fall time, I found a great offer for a six-feet Pee-Gee Hydrangea tree.  I also added lots of Daffodil and Hyacinth bulbs for next year's spring garden color.




Plants for Shade
The shaded part got a Rosa Glauca bush, a group of Salomon Seals, five different types of Hostas, and for early summer color several Astilbes in pink, white and red as well as three Japanese Anemones that would bloom in a lovely light pink the following year.  And certainly the same spring bulbs as on the sunny side.

Mulch Generously
Planting was done, so I watered again to have the area soaking wet and added a thick - ten-inch - layer of natural brown cedar mulch. If you add mulch, make sure that it is the ‘real’ thing.  Not these stained pieces of wood that are often sold in garden centers - avoid these in black, dark brown, or red! They contain chemicals (think Scott) that are poisonous for plants and you and will stain your clothes and garden gloves.




Mulched beds improve the appearance of any landscape.  But more importantly, generously topping the mulch protects the plants' root systems and adds nutrients to the soil.  Mulch slows soil erosion, retains moisture, evens out extreme temperatures in winter and summer, and successfully helps to prevent weeds.  You will spend less time weeding and watering your garden and more time enjoying it.

My friend never ever did anything on this flower bed. Once or twice a year I visited, mostly in summer or fall. I cut spent flower heads and maybe watered once or twice in summer. That was all that needed to be done. Now ten years later, the garden still looks fabulous!

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Saturday, March 28, 2009


Soil is - were it all begins

Change your soil, bring it back to life - the organic way!

I can't wait for my compost to "harvest". This winter I accumulated more than ever and soon it will be spread over and worked into the garden soil. A good part of this compost is thanks to gardener-friendly Starbucks, were I pick up loads of coffee grounds (best ratio of "green" and "brown" material).

Imagine: 90% of garden success is related to the quality of soil!
Without good soil, all of your gardening efforts are wasted.

Benefits of organic lawn and garden care: Lawns and gardens cared for organically produce plants with greater drought tolerance, disease and insect resistance and yields. Organic gardening is less expensive and time-consuming than the chemical alternatives. Your applied compost is chemical free and it won’t make kids, pets and yourself sick. Pesticides have been linked to birth defects, hormonal imbalances, cancer and many neurological problems.
I highly recommend to read the book "The world according to Monsanto" or watch the DVD...

Fact is that plants fertilized organically - using compost, manure, bone meal, blood meal, fish emulsion, sea weed etc. - require less fertilizer than plants fed with synthetic fertilizer (and it's less expensive too). Recent studies have shown that synthetic fertilizers DO NOT encourage the growth of microorganisms which live in the soil and transform nutrients - but also shows the fact that the application of a synthetic fertilizer actually kills a significant percentage of beneficial microorganisms.
Micro organisms break down organic matter such as compost and convert nitrogen from the air into a plant-useable form. Others are organisms which keep cutworms, chinch bugs and grubs in check such as beneficial
nematodes.

It can take several weeks for the soil organisms to recover from a single application of synthetic fertilizer. Long term use of synthetic fertilizers can cause a lawn or garden to become a wasteland on the microscopic level where only the most tolerant of microorganisms can survive.
Compare it with your diet: It is healthier to eat fresh, organic food that you prepared and cooked, than to eat only processed food and to compensate this unhealthy dieat, buy lots of vitamins and minerals.


Here are some recovering steps to help your garden:
INEXPENSIVE TEST OF YOUR SOIL
Determine the organic content by filling soil in a glass jar, add water and let stand for at least a day. The content in the jar will show in layers. Compare the amount of odd shaped material on top of the soil with the rest of the jars content. That’s your organic material. Used as an organic mulch, it can cut back waterings, cooling the root zone and suppressing weeds.
ADD ORGANICS
Properly aged compost contains many of the beneficial microorganisms that your soil needs for revitalization. Add 15% organic compost worked in the first foot of soil. For lawns top-dressing - spreading evenly on the surface - will show similar results after several weeks. The compost you use can come from a backyard composter or farm animal manure, all properly composted before you apply it to a lawn or planted garden. Compost that is too raw can burn your plants. Apply compost to lawns in early spring or fall only.
ORGANIC FERTILIZERS

Poor soil will benefit from the application of organic fertilizers (not "organic-based" - which is in fact chemical). Apply organic fertilizer as often as you applied synthetic. By the third year you will need to apply less (no more than twice, spring and fall, for lawns). Once your garden (or lawn) has a healthy, well balanced soil, an application of fertilizer is appropriate if you want your plants to grow larger or produce more fruit or flowers, annuals and vegetables require the most, shrubs and evergreens require less, trees require little fertilizer (unless diseased).
Nitrogen-rich fertilizers should be applied more heavily in spring, when most new growth takes place. Cool weather plants such as grass will benefit from fall application. Trees and shrubs benefit from a light feeding of phosphorous and potassium in spring. They will also benefit from an application of bone meal when planting.


MORE HELP for your plants:


- Companion planting such as marigold helps by discouraging insects - Fixing nitrogen from the air and make it available for other plants e.g. pole beans and corn - the corn stakes the beans, the beans feed the corn
- Shading plants in the heat of the summer, for sample corn or sunflower shading cucumbers and squash
- Boosting growth in their neighbor, such as tomatoes and basil grown together increase each others yield by 30-40%
- Killing microscopic soil borne disease organisms: chives or garlic planted near roses kill blackspot fungal spores in the soil
- Plant were they belong: Moisture loving plants in dry areas become stressed - and vice versa. Stressed plants are less able to fend insects off.
- Mulch: Use organic material, this and coco mulch, cedar, pine and composted bark must be topped every year. They are retaining moisture too
- Water deeply to encourage root growth, but only once a week in dry
summer. Frequent, light watering makes plants dependant upon the water
and they suffer when it’s interrupted. Best time to water is in the early
morning this way the leaves have the chance to dry off before the noon heat.
Organic mulching cuts back on watering requirements.

Check out these websites:
http://www.organicgardening.com/
http://www.organicagcentre.ca/ for more info.

Happy gardening!