Tuesday, August 11, 2020


Create a No-Maintenance Garden



Ten years ago I created a 36x24 flower garden bed for a friend. He had no clue of gardening or plants and even less time to do any planting or watering. He insisted to have a ‘no-maintenance’ flower bed - that I built on top of a former ugly patch of lawn.
The way I created it, this flower bed really became a ‘no-maintenance’ part of the front yard - and a fabulous one! Copy how I did it:

First, I edged the garden bed border eight inches deep and wide to avoid any grass to creep in. I collected cardboards on garbage day from all over the street.




Cardboard, Cardboard, and More Cardboard
In case you don’t have enough, just use very thick layers of newspaper (even rarer these days : )   Don’t leave any gaps between the boards, remove the plastic that holds the boxes together - and water the boards very thoroughly.  They should be more than soaking wet.  You don’t want to be that person chasing runaway cardboard caught by the wind.  The cardboard will suppress the weeds and eventually break down into the soil, adding useful organic matter.




Compost, Compost, and More Compost
A thick layer of compost went on the cardboard sheets, then the black garden soil, mixed with lots of composted manure. Chicken, cow, or sheep manure are all good for that matter. 
I must admit, I am a compost geek.  Even on road trips I collect organic stuff (Banana peels, fruit waste, tissues, eggshells, napkins, or teabags) and place them in paper bags to bring it home to my compost.  Composting organic kitchen and garden waste produces rich humus and improves the soil.  By composting you reduce the amount of waste sent to landfill sites, thus reducing greenhouse gases.  You will also save money and your health on chemical fertilizers.  Altogether were the compost, the soil and the manure ca. 15 inches thick when I started to plant flowers and small shrubs.




No-Maintenance Plants 
The planting bed was half in full sun and the other portion laid in dabbled half shade most of the day.  In the full sun part, I planted Rosa Rugosa, very hardy roses.  Also lots of Yarrow, Lavender, Salvia, and Purple Coneflowers - seven to nine plants of each, and each plant type in a group.  For lots of colors and blooms during the early fall time, I found a great offer for a six-feet Pee-Gee Hydrangea tree.  I also added lots of Daffodil and Hyacinth bulbs for next year's spring garden color.




Plants for Shade
The shaded part got a Rosa Glauca bush, a group of Salomon Seals, five different types of Hostas, and for early summer color several Astilbes in pink, white and red as well as three Japanese Anemones that would bloom in a lovely light pink the following year.  And certainly the same spring bulbs as on the sunny side.

Mulch Generously
Planting was done, so I watered again to have the area soaking wet and added a thick - ten-inch - layer of natural brown cedar mulch. If you add mulch, make sure that it is the ‘real’ thing.  Not these stained pieces of wood that are often sold in garden centers - avoid these in black, dark brown, or red! They contain chemicals (think Scott) that are poisonous for plants and you and will stain your clothes and garden gloves.




Mulched beds improve the appearance of any landscape.  But more importantly, generously topping the mulch protects the plants' root systems and adds nutrients to the soil.  Mulch slows soil erosion, retains moisture, evens out extreme temperatures in winter and summer, and successfully helps to prevent weeds.  You will spend less time weeding and watering your garden and more time enjoying it.

My friend never ever did anything on this flower bed. Once or twice a year I visited, mostly in summer or fall. I cut spent flower heads and maybe watered once or twice in summer. That was all that needed to be done. Now ten years later, the garden still looks fabulous!

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