Monday, May 10, 2021


Waterwise Flowers, Shrubs, Grasses, and Trees

 

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Years ago when there was a seven-year drought in California, many municipalities offered incentives for starting water-wise gardens. Do you love to travel? Don't have an irrigation system? Is your garden huge or has many trees? In many areas, record-breaking droughts have resulted in mandatory water rationing and incentives for water-wise landscaping that uses minimal irrigation. Cutting down on or eliminating thirsty turf grass, and introducing drought-tolerant plants is a good start.


Depending on your planting zone and with a little research, there are really a lot of blooming plants out there that are low maintenance.  Once they are established, they don’t need much water. 
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FLOWERS:

Yarrow

Salvia

Lupines

Coreopsis

Sedum (All types) 

Portulaca (All types) 

Lavender

Sage Herb

Coneflower (Echinacea)

California Poppy

Globe Thistle

Russian Sage

Orange Day Lily

Lamb's Ears




SHRUBS:

Oleander

Butterfly Bush

Blue Star Juniper

Barberry





GRASSES:

Zebra grass

Mexican feather grass

Purple fountain grass

Blue oat grass

Porcupine grass

Blue fescue




TREES:

Ginkgo Biloba

Shagbark Hickory
American Elm

Hawthorn


Consider these factors when choosing a plant for drought-tolerance, whether it's a tree, a shrub, a ground cover, or a perennial:


Competition for Resources

When you plant under trees, the available resources are scarce because a tree not only blocks sunlight and rainfall, it also takes a lot of water for itself. Weeds and other vegetation can also rob water from a new plant.


Sun Exposure

Always pay attention to sunshine requirements and/or tolerance when planting. You may think of full-sun plants when you hear mention of drought-resistant plants, but there are also suitable plants for dry shade. Moreover, not all sun-lovers tolerate excessive dryness.

The Soil Type
A drought-resistant plant in a wonderfully loamy soil may struggle during a dry spell if it's growing in sandy soil (through which water pours quickly, as through a sieve).


Save as much water as you can.  Look for plants that don’t require much water.  Why not use rain barrels and misters in the garden and landscaping to help conserve water and save on your water bill.

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Saturday, May 1, 2021


Your First Veggies

 


New to vegetable gardening? Or did you try your hands already on some greens, maybe in containers or among flowers? In any case, it is a lot of fun watching them sprout and grow. Here are some tips that might be useful:


Late March/early April is the time where impatient gardeners are sowing heat-loving veggies, like tomatoes, cucumbers, melons, and squash, indoors. The little seedlings that grow will be nurtured until the soil warms up and all threat of frost has passed, generally around the May long weekend.


However, once the soil outside has thawed enough to dig — which might be now, depending on where you live — there are cool-weather-loving crops that can be planted from seed right in the garden. These seeds are planted in the soil - they don't need that head start indoors.  However, if frosty nights are predicted, just place a clear plastic container of the soil. I always collect them throughout the year in order to have them handy in Spring.  Here are a few cool-weather crop suggestions for early veggies:



Peas 

They are one of the earliest crops you can grow, and there are different types and varieties to try.  If you are willing to sacrifice a few seeds, plant a few in a pot, so you can snip fresh pea shoots - they're pretty yummy in a salad or as a garnish.  Sow in early to mid-spring in fertile soil that gets full sun.  Also, give them a nice trellis to grow up and out.


Kale

Small-space gardeners should look for container varieties that will do well in pots.  To grow this hardy green, plant seeds anytime during the spring or early summer in well-drained, lightweight soil.  While it thrives in full sun, a kale plant will tolerate a bit of shade, as well. Cooler temperatures, or even a light frost, make small kale leaves taste sweeter - in spring or in late fall.


Beets  

They boast a number of health benefits and are delicious steamed, but you can also grate them raw into a salad.  Wait until the soil temperature is above 10ÂșC to sow.  Each beet needs to be ten to fifteen centimeters apart, so thin accordingly, once they sprout.  Don't let those thinned beet seedlings go to waste!  Sprinkle them over hearty dishes or in salads.


Carrots 

Carrots are easy to grow as long as they are planted in loose, sandy soil during the cooler periods of the growing season — spring and fall (carrots can tolerate frost).  Depending on the variety and local growing conditions, carrots may take anywhere from two to four months to mature.  Plant them in the spring and summer for a continuous harvest through fall!  They are grown as a cool-season crop which means the seeds are sown when soil temperatures reach about 50 degrees F (ca. 20 Celsius) in early spring. 


Thinning Your Seedlings

As painful as it may be to pull out fresh little seedlings that are eagerly pointing towards the sun, in most instances, thinning will benefit your crop.  Root veggies, like beets and carrots, need space to grow.  Use tweezers or small scissors to eliminate seedlings that might inhibit the growth of where you want your main plant to grow.  Read the seed packet to see how far apart each veggie needs to be spaced.

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Garden Planting of Vegetables


Make sure there's enough light

Before you buy any seeds or place an order for garden supplies, start by calculating how much sunlight is available wherever you're hoping to place your plants.  A good general rule of thumb is to go with leafier plants — things like kale, spinach, lettuce — in shadier spots because they don't need as much sunlight to grow and produce.  How sunny or shady your garden or balcony space is should really guide your planting decisions.  Any hot crops that you want to grow — peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, squashes, corn — need at least seven to eight hours of direct sun a day.  Beans, lettuce, radishes, and onions are other beginner-friendly crops to consider for your first edible garden. 


Protect Your Crops

Even if you think you have planted your crops at the right time, the weather could take a turn for the worse.  There are a few accessories you can use to protect precious young plants and seedlings that have barely had a chance to grow big and strong and healthy.  Cloches, for example, will protect tender young seedlings from harm.


Raised beds, which work well for condos and rooftop gardens as well (just put in a bottom), allow you to control or change the type and quality of the soil your plants will grow in more easily.  Look up plants based on acidic soil, alkaline soil, or just regular potting mix.  For example, if you're growing blueberries you may want to add coffee grounds or pine needles to the soil to make it more acidic.


If you want the best success for your plants, go with the blends of black soil, compost, and rotted manure (chicken, cow, sheep).  Although slightly pricier, the blends incorporate amendments like composted manure or peat moss to offer more nutrients. 


Your raised garden beds can be any size you want. As taller the bed is, the less you'll have to bend over to do work in it.  And each bed can be as long as you want. As a rule of thumb, keep the width to about three feet wide.  Use containers that offer sufficient depth and also drainage (that have one or more holes at the base).  For larger-scale plants such as tomatoes, squashes, eggplants, and peppers, use a planter that's at least two feet deep, both for stability and to give the roots enough space. 

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Read Your Seed Packages 

Read the fine print on each seed package before you purchase!  Make sure your garden or container will offer sufficient space for, and between, your vegetables — you might be able to fit in fewer mature plants than you think.  Some plants can grow quite tall and will require trellises or other vertical supports. 
Seed packages show how many days it takes that plant to grow.  In an area where there are 90 days of summer, so anything that takes more than 95 days, the likelihood of being able to grow that plant before you get our first frost of the winter is probably not very high.  In that case, you would need to start seeds indoors early enough or consider buying seedlings.  


Companion Planting

Companion planting lists can be confusing, but most plants either love tomatoes or beans, but not both.  If you're doing tomatoes, you're not planting any of the bean friends (like cabbages, eggplants, beets, broccoli, or cauliflower) close by. Instead, consider planting onions, garlic, peppers, basil, and herbs nearby.  It also can be helpful to grow pollinator-friendly flowers near crops that need pollination (i.e. tomato, pepper, and eggplant), especially if you have a balcony or rooftop garden that might not normally attract bees and other pollinators.  Marigolds are a really good option that you'll find just everywhere.  They're very cheap, abundant, and easy to start from seed.


Water Judiciously 

Plants need three to four inches of water per week. If you get two inches of rain.  Keep in mind that container gardens tend to dry out a lot faster than regular ground gardens. That might mean watering at least once a day, or two times a day sometimes, whereas, in a regular garden, you might water every other day or every three days depending on rain.  Balcony and rooftop gardens should also be watered more frequently.  You get a lot more sun intensity on a rooftop or balcony, so you want to make sure that your vegetable garden has access to water every single day.




How to Get Rid of Critters

For both urban and rural gardens alike, critters such as raccoons, deer, and rabbits can be a threat. You can surround crops with other plants that the pests don't like.  For example, if you plant onions around your tomatoes it stops the critters because they hate the smell of onions.  Same with used coffee grounds and sliced garlic.  Males can also pee onto the soil : )  It will deter these critters.
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Mix Vegetables With Flowers

Why?  Soften the look of a vegetable garden and many flowers attract beneficial insects.  Plant them in wherever there's space — such as alyssum, sunflowers, agastache, sedums, salvia, and nasturtium.

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Wednesday, April 7, 2021


Introducing one of my Favored Blooms: Japanese Anemone




Sometime in the past, Anemones were brought from their native China to Japan, where they naturalized in the wild.  There, these lovely fall-blooming plants were discovered by European plant collectors and were mistakenly identified as Japanese native.  These Japanese Anemones are long-lived and relatively low maintenance. 



Charming Late Summer Blooms
They range in height from 2'-3' (60 cm -90 cm).  Gardeners can reduce the plant's height by cutting it back in early June.  One of the great assets of these plants is their blooming time. They begin to flower in mid-to-late August and continue to do so until the first frosts -- covering the time when summer blooms fade until the fall blooms start.

How to Plant and Care
Japanese anemone plants grow in nearly any well-drained soil, but they are happiest in rich, loose soil. Mix a little compost or rotted manure into the soil at planting time. Although Japanese Anemone plants tolerate full sunlight, they appreciate a lightly shaded area where they are protected from intense sunlight – especially in hot climates.  They won’t tolerate dry soil for long periods of time.  A layer of bark chips or other mulch keeps the roots cool and moist.






Japanese anemone plants are spreading by underground runners. It may take a year or two for a Japanese Anemone to get fully established.  A place where the plant is free to spread is ideal, for example, when establishing a new garden bed that hasn't many plants yet.  A large blooming group looks best!  Half a dozen or more is very showy in late summer, early fall!
They are deer and rabbit "resistant" -- but I wouldn't bet on it -- better have a dog around...


Japanese Anemone and Aster Combination


Where to Find This Plant:
Garden Centers may almost never show this plant, but Japanese Anemone may be available at your local greenhouse or nursery. Otherwise, it’s easy to divide mature plants or take root cuttings in early spring.




Friday, March 26, 2021


Spring is in the air! Let Time Stand Still...

 



Time to visit the E.F. Gamble Historic Home & Garden in Palo Alto, Silicon Valley.  I didn't make it in Spring so far, but I was able to stop by for a visit in January and February.  And I was able to find lots of blooming shrubs, such as Azaleas, Camellias, Rhododendron, and amazing Magnolias. The property includes a rose garden, cutting garden, formal herb garden, demonstration bed, wisteria garden, and an allĂ©e. 
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Gamble has over 50 distinct camellia cultivars or species, including Camellia japonica ‘Kumasaka’, one of the oldest camellias in continuous culture. In fact, Gamble Garden is listed on the American Camellia Society's American Camellia Trail.  


The Gamble Garden Camellia Collection has a total number of camellia plants: 61.  Miss Gamble purchased many of her camellias and rhododendrons from Toichi Domoto, a Japanese-American pioneer camellia grower and world-class hybridizer whose family had a nursery in Hayward, California. The Domotos imported camellias and azaleas from Japan in the 1920s and 1930s under perilous conditions.  In 1939, Miss Gamble purchased a Camellia japonica ‘Kumasaka.’ It is one of the oldest camellias in continuous culture. Kumasaka was clearly recorded in Japan in 1695 and thrives in Gamble Garden today. 

The small botanical garden is a non-profit education center and garden, open to the public. 

The 2.5-acre garden includes formal and demonstration gardens. 

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The Gamble Garden's Spring program includes their famous Spring Tour, and classes to help you prepare your own garden for the coming year.  Don't miss this popular Bay Area celebration, now in an all-virtual format. 
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A ticket to ‘Preview Party at Home.'  The event includes the talk with Jennifer Jewell, (Garden Writer & Editor, Radio Host) and exclusive access to Over the Garden Fence (OTGF), Silent Auction, Vendor Marketplace, and Plant Sales, all online.
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The Elizabeth F. Gamble Garden the perfect setting for your wedding ceremony, reception, rehearsal dinner, bridal shower, baby shower, day-after-wedding brunch, anniversary event, etc.

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The garden is open to the public every day during daylight hours. Admission is free, but donations are gratefully accepted. The gardens are not receiving any financial support from the (wealthy) city of Palo Alto...
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Enjoy your visit

1431 Waverly Street, Palo Alto, CA 94301 - off HWY 82 or train station Stanford

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Wednesday, March 24, 2021


Gourmet Spring Fruit & Veggies - in Europe




Embrace the Spring season, enjoy these favorite European spring foods

Italy: Try New Veggies

In Italian spring markets, you’ll find many familiar and many unfamiliar vegetables.  There will still be Artichokes in spring, the spiny artichokes of Sicily and Sardinia - and they will be inexpensive.  "Carciofi Spinoso Sardo", looks distinctly different from other varieties.  Also called the “edible thistle”, they date back to the ancient Egyptians.  Find these delicious fresh Artichokes from January to April. 

Try Agretti, a marsh grass that you saute in a little oil and some garlic.   Season lightly - if at all because it has a saltiness inherent in its place of birth.  Agretti is just perfect for quiches (and frittata or pasta dishes).   Native to the Mediterranean area, it can be easily mistaken for chives, but with slightly thicker and longer leaves. 

There is also Lampascione, really a specific type of hyacinth bulb that was once Cucina Povera.  It means the cooking of the poor and now has become quite trendy.  Check out the recipes and soak them well, changing the water often.   This Muscari (Muscari comosum) has an absolutely gorgeous flower, and the price from a greengrocer is a lot cheaper than one would find in a garden center.  Amazing that gardeners can choose between enjoying lovely spring flowers or food.  Reminds me of the Dutch who ate tulip bulbs during the war - which was the Dutch version of Cucina Povera. 


French Food in Spring

60 percent of France’s strawberry production is grown in the Dordogne Valley and production lies in and around the village of Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne.  These wild strawberries of France are a must! Even rarer, are the strawberries grown in the Aveyron are special and ripen earlier than garden strawberries.   Sensational delicious Strawberries can be bought and tasted at Farmer Markets in early May.   
The "Gariguette" is the absolutely perfect, legendary French strawberry created by those who know everything about strawberries.


UK and Germany

Asparagus Festivals are taking place in the UK and in Germany in Spring.  Late April, early May is the start of a two-month asparagus festival in the Vale of Evesham in Worcestershire in the Cotswolds.  White asparagus season in Germany and the north of Europe starts in early May and lasts until late June.  The white asparagus is grown underground.  Therefore, the white asparagus is not exposed to sunlight and doesn't produce chlorophyll.   The verdant asparagus pokes through the dirt as it grows, soaking up the sun and producing chlorophyll, which is what turns the vegetable green.  White asparagus is often accompanied by thin slices of ham, new potatoes, and sauce hollandaise.


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Enjoy these delicious European Spring dishes! 

Or grow these veggies and fruits in your own garden!




Sunday, February 21, 2021


2021 Perennial Plant of the Year

 




‘Cat’s Pajamas’ Catmint - A Perfect Pop of Color to Any Garden

Plant Breeder Proven Winners explains:  "Give it a year or two to mature and you’ll see that this petite little catmint forms a bowling ball-shaped mound that’s covered top to bottom in splashy blue blossoms that bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds adore."

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Two Flowering Seasons

"Catmint blooms first in late spring to early summer, then after a quick shearing, it flowers again from midsummer to fall.  Use it as a tidy, colorful border around your veggie garden where visiting bees will make regular visits and help boost your yields.  Or line your front border with a ribbon of this blue beauty and admire it every time you walk outside.  There are endless uses for this easy-to-grow, hardy perennial!"

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How to Grow

Catmint is hardy in zones 3-8, in full sun, average to poor (low nutrient) soil. 
Allow drying a bit between waterings.  It does not like waterlogged soil.  It grows 12-14” tall 
and 18-20” wide, and is deer and rabbit resistant.


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Friday, December 4, 2020


Christmas Planters

Here are some ideas on how to bring Christmas cheer to your outdoors:

 

















Tuesday, September 1, 2020


How to Plant, Grow and Harvest Rhubarb


Rhubarb is a delicious cool-weather veggie and a great addition to any edible garden - even mixed in between flowers in a sunny perennial bed. 

The Chinese call rhubarb "the great yellow" and have used rhubarb root for medicinal purposes for thousands of years.  During Islamic times, it was imported along the Silk Road, reaching Europe in the 14th century through the ports of Aleppo and Smyrna.  Rhubarb was grown in Scotland from at least 1786, having been introduced to the Botanical Garden in Edinburgh.

With its delicious edible leaf stalks loaded with a tangy yet sweet, crisp flavor, it often serves as the perfect companion for strawberries or as the main ingredient in pies, jams, and jellies. Here are a few tips about how to plant, grow, and harvest Rhubarb:

Take the root and crown and place it on the ground.  Don’t put them more than 1 or 2 inches into the soil or they won’t come up.  Once flower stalks appear on the growing rhubarb, remove them right away so they don’t rob the plant of nutrients.  Cutting the seeds will trick the plant into continuing to produce delicious ruby red stalks, thereby extending the delectable season for rhubarb-strawberry pie.

Water the plants during dry weather.  Rhubarb doesn’t tolerate drought.  If newly planted, Rhubarb should not be harvested the first year, to help the plant establish itself.  Wait a year or two before you begin to harvest.

Make sure the plant is ready to be harvested.  The best time to harvest is from spring to early summer—usually May to early July.  Although they can be picked into late summer, stop collecting the stalks well before the first frost, to help ensure that the plant makes it through winter.  To harvest, the stalks should be at least 10 to 15 inches long. 

Gently grab near the base of the desired stalk and slowly pull and twist. Make sure to cut the leaves off the stalks and discard them: they are poisonous and should never be consumed.

Splitting rhubarb will give new life to the plant.  Dig around the root clump (6 inches deep) and lift the whole plant from the ground.  Divide the root ball into sections containing at least one bud and up to two to three buds with plenty of roots by cutting down through the crown between the buds. 

Prior to transplanting, soak the refrigerated sections in room temperature water overnight. Select a planting site that is in full sun with a slightly acidic soil pH of 6.5.  Add lots of compost or composted manure and a handful of rock phosphate or bone meal per planting hole.  Mulch around the plant, best with straw. 

Happy Gardening!

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Mandevilla - Annual or Perennial?

 


Four or five years ago I found this beautiful tropical/subtropical plant in a nursery. I was immediately smitten by the lush blooms. In the meantime, they are amazingly popular and can even be found in ordinary garden centers. No wonder: They are vigorously blooming from late spring into fall, and will grow larger, especially the Mandevilla vines. 

Gardeners appreciate Mandevilla vines (Mandevilla splendens) for their ability to climb up trellises and garden walls quickly and easily. The climbing vine can cover a backyard, hiding eyesores quickly and beautifully.  Mandevilla species are native to the Southwestern US, Mexico, Central America, the West Indies, and South America, especially Brasil.

This beautiful plant is tougher than it looks, but it will not grow or bloom in temperatures lower than 50 degrees F.  However, the roots are still alive and the plant will grow back in spring. In climates lower than zone 8, the plant may not survive the winter. The solution is to grow the Mandevilla in a pot and bring it indoors when temps reach about  50 degrees F.
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How to Grow for Mandevilla Outdoors
Plant the Mandevilla in partial shade and well-drained soil.  Water the plant regularly, but allow the soil to dry between each irrigation.  Fertilize Mandevilla regularly during the growing season.  To maintain your young plant, train the vine to grow on a trellis.  Pinch or prune young plants to encourage bushy growth and to maintain the desired size and shape.


Mandevilla Indoor Growing 
Mandevilla is suitable for growing indoors year-round, but this tropical plant needs a warm, sunny location such as a south-facing window, especially in winter.  If you have a sunroom with light from all sites your Mandevilla might even bloom in winter.  But don’t force and fertilize it.  The plant needs a rest during wintertime.

Trim the plants back. This will decrease the leaf loss you see inside and help prime some new growth that's better adapted to indoor conditions.  A popular spray that is okay to use on a plant you are bringing indoors is Neem Oil.  Once a month bring your plant into the shower to apply some moisture onto the leaves.

Move the plant outdoors during the summer months. Water when the soil feels dry to the touch, then allow the pot to drain thoroughly. This includes indoor heating vents. Blasts of hot (or cold) air can cause yellow or brown foliage. Fertilize the plant regularly during spring and summer. Repot the Mandevilla plant to a slightly larger pot with a drainage hole every spring. Pinch wilted blooms regularly and prune the plant at least by half in late autumn.

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Tuesday, August 18, 2020


Never Ending Work on Lawns



A lawn is not only a resting place but can also be a lot of work. 
Too dry, too many weeds, ecologically questionable: the lawn causes many garden owners a big bellyache.  And worst of all: It is the dead part of any garden - no colorful flowers, no blooming shrubs, and no pollinating bees.

Following this blog over the years, you might have noticed that I am not a fan of lawns.  For me, lawns are expensive and involve lots of work - time you better spend relaxing in your garden.  Beautiful flower beds with lots of perennials and blooming shrubs are way more eco-friendly!  Lawns are dead! pieces of land in many aspects.  But most people don’t think about the environment and act very traditional, wanting to have an immaculate lawn.  So, here are some (video) tips on how to care for your turf:

The First Rule for Lawns:
Water, water, and water even more! The second rule is to de-thatch and weed, then mow your lawn. More after a rainy period - less in dry conditions. To ease the mowing task and also to avoid costly lawnmowing services, you might consider a lawnmower robot.  People use these robotic devices to vacuum their houses, clean the pool, so why not in the garden?

Robotic lawn mowers - Buyer's Guide
Expert advice on choosing the best robotic lawn mower for your garden, from the reviews team at BBC Gardeners' World Magazine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uq7-8hSCS90
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Are ROBOT LAWN Mowers any Good?
See how my robotic lawn mower performed & what you need to know BEFORE considering buying one of these. Featuring the Worx Landroid.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3IQhM0dkiiE

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Best Robot Lawn Mowers in 2020
Comparisons are based on different sources of information, such as technical data, customer opinions, and our personal experience with the model. Due to the nature of our business, we get our hands on many different gardening tools and equipment.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnadVE4Alpw

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De-Thatching
Spring de-thatching is a great way to help renovate your tired, ugly lawn.  Using a rake is hard work, and it needs one of these old-fashioned straight, metal rakes.  If you have a large lawn you can use a machine that can make the job so much easier than raking by hand. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ea1wG2iLJFA

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How to Have Clean Edges Around Your Lawn
There is nothing that looks better than well taken care of natural edges in the lawn! However, the half-moon edger he uses in the video is very cheap and you should purchase a better one, with an ergonomic handle and a wider part to step on. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Qwf-rVDtVo

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Grow a Micro Clover Lawn
This is my favored way of having a beautiful lawn - and I am talking of many years of experience in my own garden: Micro Clover has many benefits over traditional grass, but can also work well with grass. It requires less water and is more sustainable than regular grass lawns and requires far less fertilizer.  As soon as the snow is melted, your lawn will show a nice green color, while your neighbor’s lawn is still brown and unsightly.  And you save lots of mowing time.  This video explains the benefits of micro clover, gives directions on how to seed a micro clover lawn AND overseed a grass lawn with micro clover.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uq7-8hSCS90

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My Best Advice: Shrink Your Lawn
Those expanses of green turf take an enormous amount of resources.  Eliminate some of your lawns and create a more natural landscape.  You will ultimately use less water and reduce chemical use and save some money too.  As well, you will do less mowing and raking.

Moving away from water-guzzling and chemical-hungry lawns and cultivating yards that are diverse and self-regulating is a matter of mounting urgency.  As global temperatures rise and droughts drag on, the demands of turfgrass are likely to become untenable. 

Recommended reading:

https://www.nrdc.org/stories/more-sustainable-and-beautiful-alternatives-grass-lawn

https://www.cbc.ca/life/home/the-case-for-leaving-the-perfectly-manicured-lawn-behind-1.6449477

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Tuesday, August 11, 2020


Create a No-Maintenance Garden



Ten years ago I created a 36x24 flower garden bed for a friend. He had no clue of gardening or plants and even less time to do any planting or watering. He insisted to have a ‘no-maintenance’ flower bed - that I built on top of a former ugly patch of lawn.
The way I created it, this flower bed really became a ‘no-maintenance’ part of the front yard - and a fabulous one! Copy how I did it:

First, I edged the garden bed border eight inches deep and wide to avoid any grass to creep in. I collected cardboards on garbage day from all over the street.




Cardboard, Cardboard, and More Cardboard
In case you don’t have enough, just use very thick layers of newspaper (even rarer these days : )   Don’t leave any gaps between the boards, remove the plastic that holds the boxes together - and water the boards very thoroughly.  They should be more than soaking wet.  You don’t want to be that person chasing runaway cardboard caught by the wind.  The cardboard will suppress the weeds and eventually break down into the soil, adding useful organic matter.




Compost, Compost, and More Compost
A thick layer of compost went on the cardboard sheets, then the black garden soil, mixed with lots of composted manure. Chicken, cow, or sheep manure are all good for that matter. 
I must admit, I am a compost geek.  Even on road trips I collect organic stuff (Banana peels, fruit waste, tissues, eggshells, napkins, or teabags) and place them in paper bags to bring it home to my compost.  Composting organic kitchen and garden waste produces rich humus and improves the soil.  By composting you reduce the amount of waste sent to landfill sites, thus reducing greenhouse gases.  You will also save money and your health on chemical fertilizers.  Altogether were the compost, the soil and the manure ca. 15 inches thick when I started to plant flowers and small shrubs.




No-Maintenance Plants 
The planting bed was half in full sun and the other portion laid in dabbled half shade most of the day.  In the full sun part, I planted Rosa Rugosa, very hardy roses.  Also lots of Yarrow, Lavender, Salvia, and Purple Coneflowers - seven to nine plants of each, and each plant type in a group.  For lots of colors and blooms during the early fall time, I found a great offer for a six-feet Pee-Gee Hydrangea tree.  I also added lots of Daffodil and Hyacinth bulbs for next year's spring garden color.




Plants for Shade
The shaded part got a Rosa Glauca bush, a group of Salomon Seals, five different types of Hostas, and for early summer color several Astilbes in pink, white and red as well as three Japanese Anemones that would bloom in a lovely light pink the following year.  And certainly the same spring bulbs as on the sunny side.

Mulch Generously
Planting was done, so I watered again to have the area soaking wet and added a thick - ten-inch - layer of natural brown cedar mulch. If you add mulch, make sure that it is the ‘real’ thing.  Not these stained pieces of wood that are often sold in garden centers - avoid these in black, dark brown, or red! They contain chemicals (think Scott) that are poisonous for plants and you and will stain your clothes and garden gloves.




Mulched beds improve the appearance of any landscape.  But more importantly, generously topping the mulch protects the plants' root systems and adds nutrients to the soil.  Mulch slows soil erosion, retains moisture, evens out extreme temperatures in winter and summer, and successfully helps to prevent weeds.  You will spend less time weeding and watering your garden and more time enjoying it.

My friend never ever did anything on this flower bed. Once or twice a year I visited, mostly in summer or fall. I cut spent flower heads and maybe watered once or twice in summer. That was all that needed to be done. Now ten years later, the garden still looks fabulous!

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