Fall Garden Pleasures & Chores

 

Beautiful blooms, rich foliage, and dramatic seed heads abound. Dozens of bees are cruising around blooming Sedums, Japanese Anemones are showing off their beauty, and Hydrangeas are blooming even in shaded parts of the garden. Ornamental grasses are more attractive than in summer, Clematis might bloom for a second time and some Roses are still providing spectacular colors well into Fall. In a few weeks it will all be gone, so take some time to enjoy the warm October afternoons outdoors in your glorious fall garden!

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Bring Indoor Plants In

The end of October (or early November) is then filled with fall garden chores - from cutting back dying perennials, to planting bulbs and preparing the indoor plants for their return back into the house.  Potted plants need to be re-potted especially the tropicals in outdoor containers.  Add new potting mix and increase the pot by one size to keep them happy all winter.  This will be the last feeding until March. Make sure to check for any critters and pests before bringing anything inside, and consider applying insecticidal soap to the soil after re-potting (it leaches down into the new pot).  You can also hang sticky pads on them to catch tiny flies.

Leaves

Remove leaves from your lawn, or otherwise the grass underneath can rot.  But do it NOT with leaf vacuums or leaf blowers.  Experts advise against using leaf vacuums or leafblowers.  Leafblowers are a disaster for the environment.  They destroy the upper layer of the earth and with it many organisms that try to live there.  Apart from the noise, devices with combustion engines emit harmful exhaust gases such as carbon, nitrogen oxides, and carbon monoxide. Also, small animals are literally chopped up when using suction devices.

Lawns

White grubs are a common turf and lawn pest, and beneficial nematodes can be a very effective (and safe!) control.  However, it is important to treat at the right time of year, based on the white grubs’ life cycle, to ensure good control.  Treating them in early fall is ideal, as that is when the smaller, young grubs are most susceptible to nematodes.  Heteromask is a preferred product against white grubs, but Scanmask is also effective.  Focus treatment on sunny areas of your lawn/turf or on any areas that show signs of grub damage.  Heteromask comes in a spray formulation, and you can use the Nema-Jet, a hose-end sprayer or a watering can (for smaller areas) to apply

Lawns are hungry as well. Early October is the time for your second application of fertilizer with a “winterizer” type on the label, one with an NPK (nitrogen/phosphorous/potassium) of around 28-0-14.

You should mow your lawn for the last time this year by the end of November at the latest - after that there's no point, as you may even harm it if it has to survive the winter after being shorn too short. It's best to set your lawn mower higher so that your lawn can catch enough sunlight even in the cold season and doesn't give uninvited guests such as moss a chance to grow in.

Rake the leaves from the paths into the beds on the left and right - but not higher than 3 inches.  Mark where you have plants to avoid trampling on them in early spring.  The layer of leaves provides frost protection for the plants in winter and also attracts blackbirds, for example, which pick pests out of the beds.  Leaves also help plant growth in the long term.  The leaves gradually decompose and become valuable fertilizer and soil.  Nature has the very best recycling system.  It's unbeatable!

You can also cover flower and vegetable beds with fresh compost: It can mature over the winter and provides the plants with an ideal breeding ground when they develop new shoots in the spring.

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Hedges & Shrubs

In gardens and parks, densely growing shrubs and hedges create visual accents.  For property owners, especially those who live directly on a street, hedges serve primarily as privacy screens.  But hedges are not an attractive substitute for a fence, they serve as a habitat for many animals.  For this reason, there are a few things to keep in mind when trimming hedges:

Hedges should only be trimmed between October and the end of February.  Between March and September, some native bird species use the densely growing hedge plants as a shelter to first build a nest undisturbed by humans and predators and later raise their young ones in it.  However, as soon as the first strong frost sets in, it is important to stop pruning your trees and shrubs, as the cuts will no longer close. 

Usually, hedges are cut with hedge shears.  The fastest and most efficient way is to use the electric version.  A little more practical, but also a few dollars more expensive, are models that are powered by a battery.  Hedges should be cut conically, a little narrower towards the top.  The reason is quite simple: The lower branches get much less light with a straight cut.  In the worst case, they become bare or stunted.  That's why the base of any hedge should be about 20 inches wider than the top.  Donate an additional layer of mulch to the soil under the hedge.  This favors the nutrient balance and pleases numerous microorganisms.

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No Need to Cut Roses in Fall

Older varieties of roses lay the flower buds already in the previous year and then unfold all their beauty only once - in early summer.  The problem is that the new shoots do not produce new flowers in the same year.  This means that they will not bear a single flower in summer if they are pruned as radically as roses that bloom more often.  Tip: Thin out such roses only slightly in spring so that the crown does not become too dense.

Prune Roses in Spring:

Be patient and wait to prune roses until no more heavy (night) frosts are expected.  So, about after the forsythia bush flowers have faded.  The 'eyes', i.e. the places where a rose can form side shoots, play an important role when pruning roses.  If you cut the shoot too close over an eye or side shoot, they could dry out.  What would be left behind - instead of a fragrant flower - would be an unsightly stub.  Therefore, place the scissors about five millimeters above the uppermost eye and cut the shoot at a slight downward angle.  This prevents water from collecting, which would provide a perfect breeding ground for pathogens.

For shrub roses, cut back to no more than half the shoot length.  Otherwise, long and unstable shoots will develop.  The procedure is different again for climbing roses.  Here, the previous year's shoots remain uncut and are only slightly thinned out. 

It’s also time to plant lots of bulbs for spectacular spring blooming.  Pay attention to the planting depth as listed on the packages.  Dividing perennials is a great way to make your beds fuller.  Lift plants carefully from the hole and shake off excess soil.  Remove any dead stems and foliage.  Separate the root system in half down from the middle, using two garden spades or forks or a sharp knife.  Replant in a new hole with fresh soil and water thoroughly.  If there is no rain during the next days, water these 'new' plants at least three times a week.

Keep pulling up the summer veggies as they ripen, and make room for fall crops, such as turnips, beets, onions, spinach, or Brussels sprouts.  Composting summer plants will improve your soil next spring.

Read more: 

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/bulbs/bgen/bulbs-for-shade-gardens.htm

https://biologicco.wpengine.com/blog/faq-how-to-kill-white-grubs-with-nematodes/

https://www.cbc.ca/life/home/how-to-prepare-your-garden-for-winter-1.6623540

https://www.npr.org/2022/10/25/1131114849/leaves-fall-autumn-compost-mulch-grass-lawn-nutrients

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How to Care for Long-Blooming Roses

Roses, besides being magnificent flowers, have a long history. The oldest rose planted today was in existence some 3,000 years ago according to The Old Farmers Almanac.

Roses crave sunlight and generous helpings of food and water. In most climates, provide at least six hours of sunlight per day. If you live in a very hot climate, plant them where they are shaded from the hot afternoon sun. When watering, water at the base of the plant - water the soil, never pour it over the plant!  Provide at least an inch or two of water per week.  Natural cedar mulch helps to retain moisture in the soil and evens out temperatures in winter as well as on hot summer days.

Coffee Grounds
The reason coffee grounds are so good for rose bushes is because of their high nitrogen content. Roses need neutral to acidic soil, and if you add coffee grounds, it will help take the pH from neutral to acidic. ... Plus, astonishingly as it may seem, many bugs and pests are repelled by coffee grounds.

When to Plant Roses
Bare-root roses: Plant in late autumn at leaf fall, and from late winter to early spring, before growth resumes. Avoid planting in the middle of winter when the ground is frozen. Container-grown roses: Plant all year round, provided the ground is neither frozen, nor dry. Plant roses in rich, well-draining soil. When planting, mix organic matter, such as compost or ground bark, into excavated soil you'll use to backfill the planting hole.


Rose Pruning
Use very sharp rose scissors. If the machine does not cut properly, there is a risk of bruising, the cutting point is not clean and is a target for disease.

An old, slightly neglected bed rose can be shortened more radically, which means "rejuvenating", a young climbing rose just wants to be cleaned out.

Cut all old, dead, and very weak shoots - regardless of the type of rose. Men tend to cut a lot, women usually cut far too little : )

Look for an outward-facing eye, about 20 to 60 centimeters above the ground, place scissors in a fourth-degree angle just above it, and cut off smoothly.

Take a step back and examine your work.  Be stern with yourself and rework.  Ten centimeters more might still work. If you feel that you have cut too much off, it is probably just right.  You can't cut off too much.

Every five years even the climbing rose can tolerate an incision to rejuvenate.  Unlike haircutting, shortening the shoots stimulates growth.  Because roses only bloom on new wood, this is also good for the flowering.  Only if you cut, can the rose bloom again, the cut gives it vitality.

Otherwise, each rose is pruned differently: The shrub roses should grow bushy, the noble rose has only one flower per stem, the bed rose looks nicer if it also bears flowers on the lower levels.  Bed roses don't not have too much-lignified stems, so it must be pruned at the bottom.

You should also avoid spraying, for example, if one plant has developed rust, you must take care that it does not infect the others.  To prevent this, cut off all infested leaves, even a radical cut can be advisable.

Black Spots and Rust: 
I have had the best experience with a simple household remedy:
I bought a big bag of cornflour, lightly sprayed the rose with water, and then sprinkled the cornflour all over the plant.  Two days later the procedure again and the rose was free of the ugly spots.

The annual rose pruning should be done in spring, to avoid severe frost.  Once the forsythia has withered, is the best time.  In autumn you can do a slight pruning, then everything looks a bit tidier - but you also would miss the pretty rose hips.

The tart reddish-orange hips of rugosa rose hips are used for jams, jellies, syrups, pies, teas, and wine. Check out our Rose Hip Jam recipe.  Rose petals are edible and can be tossed into salads for color, candied to decorate cakes, or distilled to make rose water.


See videos about pruning roses:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6la_YikkQc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BN3G-wpWtFY

Like to have more rose plants?
Propagation - How to grow roses from cuttings:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xw4d-s9N8zE

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A Gardeners Dream: Landhaus Ettenbühl

Traveling between Freiburg/Breisgau and Basel, Switzerland? Don't miss this hidden treasure for plant lovers, gourmets, and romantics. Just minutes from Hwy 3 or Hwy 5, south of Bad Bellingen-Hertingen, visitors and guests can enjoy lovely gardens, tea time and a wonderful restaurant or a picnic on the grounds.

Ettenbühl is not only a rose garden with immense varieties of roses, but also a 5-hectare landscape park with many distinct flowers, rare trees, forests, and shrubs.  There is always something new to discover in the twenty garden rooms - 365 days a year.  Enjoy English garden culture, but also stop by at the cozy restaurant for breakfast, lunch, brunch, coffee, and cake, or an original English tea time.
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Gardeners Brunches and Picnics
If you are in the area on September 15, September 22, or October 6 - and you like to have a leisurely brunch, make your reservations in time.  Official summer picnics are on September 9 and September 14.

They extended the Bed & Breakfast to ten rooms - and of course, there is also "Ettenbühl to take away".  At the rose and shrub nursery, you will find over 1000 varieties of roses and shrubs, and in the country house shop, are beautiful, practical and useful things for your home and gardening.  A large selection of roses and perennials can be purchased too.
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English Gardening School
The gardens of the Landhaus Ettenbühl, which are now over 40 years old, serve as an ideal and inspiring classroom.  The aim of these gardening classes is to bring visitors closer to the art of English gardening, both with its practical and artistic aspects.
Visitors are welcomed with tea or coffee and a croissant and are served a 3-course lunch with wine or other drinks.

Enjoy one of the loveliest gardens in Germany or maybe even Europe!

Info:
Hof Ettenbühl, 79415 Bad Bellingen-Hertingen, Germany
Rosen und Staudengärtnerei - ‎Englischer Garten
https://www.landhaus-ettenbuehl.de/ (German only)

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Fabulous Fall Color Perennials

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Annual flowering plants have a finite life: they are called annuals, since they complete their life cycle in September, latest early October of each year.   So, think about Fall colors in early Spring, before you even plant your seasonal Summer blooms.  They look great, not only in flower beds but also in containers:
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Sedum Autumn Joy.
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This lovely plant produces a broad flower in a variety of colours that cover the range between pink / red / bronze and magenta. They work well in containers and certainly in the garden where butterflies will find them.
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Chrysanthemums.
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The introduction of Belgian Mums means you can now purchase the most gorgeous new varieties for less than the old-fashioned ones and with an amazing amount of flowers. You can’t get better value in Fall for your bucks than that. In cool weather, they last up to six weeks.  They tolerate early-season frost, and with some luck, they may come back next year.  Plant them later in garden beds and give it a try. Most of the time I could get some of them back, blooming in next years season, albeit with a bit less blooms than in the first year - or I should have added more compost to their soil…

If you have a chance to visit the Chicago Botanic Garden or Longwood Gardens south of Philadelphia, you will be overwhelmed by the beauty of their Chrysanthemums.

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Roses.
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Rose bushes generally bloom a second time - provided you cut their first flowers immediately after . Fall Rose blossoms lasts much longer than the spring production, due to the cool temperatures this time of year. There are often great deals on Rose bushes in Fall at plant retailers.  All you have to do is prepare the soil with lots of triple mix and plant them. Shrub Roses such as Rosa Rosae will survive the Winter without protection, but many others need to be mounded up with soil or mulch about 30 centimetres in late Fall.

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Ornamental Grasses.
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They always look best in autumn, when they have the most attractive seed heads that you can imagine, swaying in the breeze. Come winter, the seed heads are frequented by Chickadees and Sparrows. Watch out when you are buying ornamental grasses, make sure that you choose the clumping varieties and not the ones that travel by roots and rhizomes around your yard and under your fence to the neighbours.

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See at HGTVgardens webpage photos of 27 ideas for using fabulous Chrysanthemums indoors and out.  And don’t forget to plant bulbs for Daffodils, Tulips, Crocus and other early Spring flowers - before the first frost comes up.

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Fall Garden

How to prepare the garden for winter:

BULB PLANTING

For the best chance of repeat bloom in subsequent years, choose a site in full sun that doesn't get much summer water. Bulbs that naturalize reliably include Allium, Daffodils, Scilla and species tulips. Feed with a fertilizer formulated specifically for bulbs. Squirrels like Tulips, use a piece of chickenwire to cover the soil and then add a thick layer of mulch.

ROSES, SHRUBS & TREES

Plant container roses and prune your hybrid tea roses. Start preparing your roses for winter:Start putting mulch around each of your rose plants after the first frost. You'll want to build up a decent sized mound around the plant, roughly 12 inches above its base.Water your rose plants as you normally would. They need plenty of water to prepare for a long winter.Set up a wire fence around some of your more delicate roses. The fence should be a circle that surrounds the plant and extends several inches above the top of it. Fill the wire fence with leaves. These leaves will insulate the plant from the cold and also protect it from a sudden warm day in the winter. Leaves are the best way to insulate your roses because they allow the plant to breath and don't trap moisture.

DIVIDE AND MOVE PLANTS

Consider moving some plants around now:Moving or dividing perennials in the autumn is a great way to reduce your work next spring.
The cool, moist weather is an ideal time for perennial roots to become well established,even in cold-winter regions. Division not only maintains the health of your perennials, but it's also an easy way to propagate your plants so that you’ll have more coverage next season.

PLANT & AMEND SOIL!!!

Fall is a very good time to plant perennials such as Peonies, Coneflower and black-eyed Susan. You can also plant garlic now for next years harvest. Plant container and balled-and-burlapped trees, fruit trees, shrubs and vines.
Spread a thick layer of compost, seaweed (kelp) or composted manure and then add a thick layer of mulch around shrubs and trees but do not place mulch too close to the plant’s trunk. Mulch helps control weeds, provides insulation for the roots during cold weather, and helps keep the soil moist.

Fall is a good time to fertilize both lawn and garden. Work some bonemeal into the soil, especially around tress and shrubs for good root development.

It’s a good idea to water your garden thoroughly before the ground freezes. Even with snow,
winter can be very dry and harsh for many trees and shrubs.

DIG OUT

Edge the perennial beds. Continue dead-heading any daisy-flowered perennials, especially Echinacea, Rudbeckia and False Sunflower (Heliopsis). These will continue flowering for weeks if you prevent the flowers from forming seeds. If you have Gladiolus, this is the time to dig the corms up and to lift your Dahlias too. Divide a clump of Chives and some bring indoors for fresh Chives in the coming weeks.
Pull out your annuals and throw them in the compost. Cut back your perennials and put the foliage in the compost as long is it's not diseased. Try to keep the fallen leaves raked off the lawn. Put them in the compost, shredding them first, using your lawnmower or mix them really well as they tend to compact. Give your compost pile a final turning.

GARDEN EQUIPMENT

It's time to store your watering hoses inside. Remember to drain them first so they don't freeze and split.Clean and oil your tools so they won't rust over the winter.
Reduce feeding houseplants and do not feed dormant houseplants.

WINTER PROTECTION

Try using evergreen boughs over your shrubs to provide winter protection. They can be forced into the ground before the ground freezes, draping their branches over the shrubs.
Bring in any annual Geraniums! Potted, in a sunny spot they will bloom all winter. Or hang them upside down (with the soil removed) in a cool spot such as the garage or basement.

Trees can be protected from rodent damage by placing a cylinder of ¼-inch mesh hardware cloth around the trunk. The cylinder should extend 5 cm below the ground line for mice and 40 cm above the anticipated snow line for rabbit protection.