Fabulous & Carefree Perennials for English Cottage Gardens

"To say those who garden are passionate about their hobby is an understatement.  Those who garden live and breathe horticulture, always seeking to improve their plantings and create beauty around each corner."
~Jane Goodger

While formal gardens are all about order and well-defined spaces, English Cottage Gardens bubble in cheerful tangles of flowers that form a kaleidoscope of hue and texture.  To create an English Garden go big on color, but light on labor with this classic, informal garden style, using these plants:

For SUN:

False Sunflowers
Sun-Loving, easy to grow, hardy, heat and drought-tolerant,  False Sunflower (Heliopsis helianthoides) with its brilliant yellow daisy-like flowers add cheery color to a garden bed or border. 

https://www.gardenia.net/plant-variety/heliopsis-helianthoides-false-sunflower

Salvia - Vibrant Blue or Pink Flower Spikes

This plant will rev your garden with big, electrified vibrant blue or pink flower spikes above a dense mound of lush foliage.  Extras include its appeal to butterflies and hummingbirds. 

https://www.bluestoneperennials.com/SAMM.html

Yarrow

Drought-tolerant common yarrow (Achillea) grows well in poor soil, making it an ideal plant for xeriscaping, especially if you live in a desert environment.  Yarrow is most often sold as a potted plant but can be easily grown from seed and doesn't need much attention once established. 

https://www.almanac.com/plant/yarrow

Echinacea
An adaptable, easy-to-grow wildflower for your garden.  Grows in a variety of soil types and moistures but is intolerant to long, dry periods and might begin to droop.  The stunning blooms are long-lasting throughout the summer.  Highly attractive to the Monarch butterfly and large seed heads attract small birds later in the season.

https://onplants.ca/product/echinacea-purpurea/

Shasta Daisies

Shasta daisies (Leucanthemum x superbum) are an old-fashioned favorite for planting in a cutting garden, along a fencerow, or in a half-wild, meadow-inspired cottage garden.  They will not attract the deer wandering through but will draw in butterflies when bursting with blooms in spring and summer.  Shasta daisies are tough and tolerant but prefer well-drained soil and require full sun (at least six hours).

https://www.southernliving.com/garden/flowers/daisy-flower-plant

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SHADE / HALF-SHADE

Siberian Iris

Like all irises, Siberians (Iris sibirica) have strappy, sword-like foliage, but the leaves of Siberian iris remain quite attractive long after the flowers have faded, offering a texture similar to that of ornamental grass.  Siberian irises are also somewhat more cold-hardy than most bearded iris.

https://www.thespruce.com/growing-siberian-iris-5089592

Japanese Anemones 

Japanese Anemones (Anemone hupehensis) do best in semi-shade, in rich soil with lots of organic matter dug in to improve their structure.  They’re very easy to care for – simply cut the old flower stems back to the base in autumn to keep the plants looking tidy, and remove any tatty-looking old leaves in spring once new leaves start to appear.  They don’t like being dug up and transplanted, and also don’t respond well to being divided, so if you want to propagate them the best way is by taking root cuttings in spring.  Ironically, given that Japanese anemones can be difficult to establish and don’t like disruption, once they are settled in.

https://www.radwaybridgegardencentre.com/news/902/garden-plant-of-the-moment-anemone

Astilbe 

Astilbe (Astilbe spp and hybrids) varieties are hardy. Plant in spring to early fall in a part sun or part shade location spaced 1 to 3 feet apart depending on the variety. Astilbe plants can take more sun but need more shade in warmer locations. Astilbe will grow in a full-shade location, but may not flower well. An East-facing location with morning sun is usually best. Astilbe grows well in moist, fertile soil with a slightly acidic pH. Keep plants well-watered and mulched with a layer of bark mulch. Replenish the mulch each spring and fertilize in spring with compost spread around the plant roots.

https://gardenerspath.com/plants/flowers/best-astilbe-varieties/

Lady's Mantle

Absolutely enchanting after the morning dew, the fuzzy leaves of Lady's Mantle (Alchemilla mollis) catch the tiny water droplets which glimmer like tiny crystals. The foliage is a soft grey-green and nearly round with deep lobes, giving them a scalloped look.  From late spring to early summer, masses of finely textured, star-shaped, yellow-green flowers are held in small clusters above the foliage. They work well as a filler in cut flower bouquets or can be dried for fall and winter arrangements.

https://www.greatgardenplants.com/products/ladys-mantle?variant=37358152581287

This is just a small list of flowering plants for an English Cottage Garden.  Here are more that I can suggest, such as Shrub Roses,  Lupins,  Delphiniums,  Lavender,  Poppy,  Hollyhock,  Peonies, Snapdragon,  Foxglove,  Bee Balm,  Loosestrife,  Hydrangeas,  Sage,  Flox,  Goatsbeard,  Spiderwort,  Castor Plants,  Salvias, etc.

Planting and Design Tips:

• Plant in clumps. Avoid individual plants, group your flowers and plants in clumps.
• Mix flower typs. Never have a single flower species in a flower bed, so, mix them all up.
• Mix colors! You can mix all colors. Make sure you choose a wide range of colors too.
• Flowers are the real protagonist. You can have trees and shrubs etc. but you will need lots of flowers in English cottage gardens! They are the real heart of a cottage garden.
• Get rid of large lawn areas. Install more flower beds and have lawns only for footpaths - if at all.

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More Stunning Flowers With Phosphorus Fertilizer

 

Did you ever enjoy a beautiful planter arrangement or a hanging basket that you bought and after a month or so the lush flowering vanished?  Despite dutifully watering new flowers were scarce.  Then you fertilized, and maybe new leaves came up but not many flowers. 

Did you use the right fertilizer?  The middle number on the bag or bottle should be higher than the ones right and left of it.  It shows the amount of phosphorus by weight.
Not all fertilizers contain phosphorus.  Many are designed to target specific nutrient deficiencies, soil conditions, or growth requirements instead.  Printed on the front of the bag or bottle, the N-P-K tells us what percentage, by weight, of each element is present.  It’s the P value to watch if you’re hunting a high phosphorus fertilizer.  The middle number should be higher if you aim for more blooms.

Too much nitrogen can result in lush, green growth but also reduce flowering. 

Too little phosphorus can also be the cause of plants not flowering.

Why Use High Phosphorus Fertilizers?

Phosphorus is a key element in plant growth, and one that’s removed from the garden every time we mow, discard autumn leaves, or harvest our delicious crops.  In order to keep on growing, we need to replace what we take away.  Phosphorus makes up about 0.1% of the Earth's crust.  Fertilizers that contain phosphorus are often sourced directly from plant or animal waste.  Others are chemical, taken from mined rock phosphates.

Bone Meal: Bone meal is exactly what you’d imagine – ground-up bones.  The bones are sourced from slaughterhouses, heat treated to kill pathogens, then milled into a fine, usable powder.

Fish Emulsion:
A more complex product than fish meal, fish emulsion is a liquified and chemically stabilized by-product of the seafood industry.  Besides the excellent amount of phosphorus it provides, it contains a modest but balanced amount of nitrogen and potassium.  Ratios vary from product to product but typically hover around 2-4-1.  Fish emulsions also contain micro-nutrients like calcium, magnesium, and sulfur, as well as protein to help encourage the growth of healthy micro-organisms in the soil.  While potted plants love fish emulsion, it’s often not a good choice for indoor plants because the smell tends to permeate the whole house or office!

Nitrogen - Phosphorus - Pottasium 
When purchasing a fertilizer consider the N-P-K ratio of the product.  Printed on the front of the bag or bottle, the NPK tells you what percentage, by weight, of each element is present. 

High Phosphorus Fertilizers

Fertilizer Type % Nitrogen (N) % Phosphorus (P) % Potassium (K)

Rate of release:

Ammonium Phosphate 12         20         None          Moderate to rapid

Rock Phosphate        None 17-30  None          Very slow

Bone Meal                 4         10          None           Moderate

Fish Emulsion                 2-5          2-4          1-2                   Rapid

Compost                       1.5-3.5    0.5-1  1-2                   Slow

Source: University of Colorado

For Flowering Annuals
It is a good idea to provide your flowering annuals with a bit of extra phosphorus as the growing season kicks off.- and also in the middle of the season.  It’s a lot of hard work to grow an entire plant in a single season, and then produce flowers on top of that!  Hydrangeas, Azaleas, Rhododendron, and Begonias also enjoy a bit of extra phosphorus as the summer sets in, to feed those luscious flowers.  Herbs and citrus trees also benefit from a supplementary dose too.

Bone meal increases phosphorus in soil for optimal spring gardening results.  Essential in the development of strong root systems, this element is released into the soil for up to four months.  Slow, steady delivery of nutrients helps you grow plenty of big, blooming flowers, fruits, and vegetables.

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Fall Garden Pleasures & Chores

 

Beautiful blooms, rich foliage, and dramatic seed heads abound. Dozens of bees are cruising around blooming Sedums, Japanese Anemones are showing off their beauty, and Hydrangeas are blooming even in shaded parts of the garden. Ornamental grasses are more attractive than in summer, Clematis might bloom for a second time and some Roses are still providing spectacular colors well into Fall. In a few weeks it will all be gone, so take some time to enjoy the warm October afternoons outdoors in your glorious fall garden!

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Bring Indoor Plants In

The end of October (or early November) is then filled with fall garden chores - from cutting back dying perennials, to planting bulbs and preparing the indoor plants for their return back into the house.  Potted plants need to be re-potted especially the tropicals in outdoor containers.  Add new potting mix and increase the pot by one size to keep them happy all winter.  This will be the last feeding until March. Make sure to check for any critters and pests before bringing anything inside, and consider applying insecticidal soap to the soil after re-potting (it leaches down into the new pot).  You can also hang sticky pads on them to catch tiny flies.

Leaves

Remove leaves from your lawn, or otherwise the grass underneath can rot.  But do it NOT with leaf vacuums or leaf blowers.  Experts advise against using leaf vacuums or leafblowers.  Leafblowers are a disaster for the environment.  They destroy the upper layer of the earth and with it many organisms that try to live there.  Apart from the noise, devices with combustion engines emit harmful exhaust gases such as carbon, nitrogen oxides, and carbon monoxide. Also, small animals are literally chopped up when using suction devices.

Lawns

White grubs are a common turf and lawn pest, and beneficial nematodes can be a very effective (and safe!) control.  However, it is important to treat at the right time of year, based on the white grubs’ life cycle, to ensure good control.  Treating them in early fall is ideal, as that is when the smaller, young grubs are most susceptible to nematodes.  Heteromask is a preferred product against white grubs, but Scanmask is also effective.  Focus treatment on sunny areas of your lawn/turf or on any areas that show signs of grub damage.  Heteromask comes in a spray formulation, and you can use the Nema-Jet, a hose-end sprayer or a watering can (for smaller areas) to apply

Lawns are hungry as well. Early October is the time for your second application of fertilizer with a “winterizer” type on the label, one with an NPK (nitrogen/phosphorous/potassium) of around 28-0-14.

You should mow your lawn for the last time this year by the end of November at the latest - after that there's no point, as you may even harm it if it has to survive the winter after being shorn too short. It's best to set your lawn mower higher so that your lawn can catch enough sunlight even in the cold season and doesn't give uninvited guests such as moss a chance to grow in.

Rake the leaves from the paths into the beds on the left and right - but not higher than 3 inches.  Mark where you have plants to avoid trampling on them in early spring.  The layer of leaves provides frost protection for the plants in winter and also attracts blackbirds, for example, which pick pests out of the beds.  Leaves also help plant growth in the long term.  The leaves gradually decompose and become valuable fertilizer and soil.  Nature has the very best recycling system.  It's unbeatable!

You can also cover flower and vegetable beds with fresh compost: It can mature over the winter and provides the plants with an ideal breeding ground when they develop new shoots in the spring.

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Hedges & Shrubs

In gardens and parks, densely growing shrubs and hedges create visual accents.  For property owners, especially those who live directly on a street, hedges serve primarily as privacy screens.  But hedges are not an attractive substitute for a fence, they serve as a habitat for many animals.  For this reason, there are a few things to keep in mind when trimming hedges:

Hedges should only be trimmed between October and the end of February.  Between March and September, some native bird species use the densely growing hedge plants as a shelter to first build a nest undisturbed by humans and predators and later raise their young ones in it.  However, as soon as the first strong frost sets in, it is important to stop pruning your trees and shrubs, as the cuts will no longer close. 

Usually, hedges are cut with hedge shears.  The fastest and most efficient way is to use the electric version.  A little more practical, but also a few dollars more expensive, are models that are powered by a battery.  Hedges should be cut conically, a little narrower towards the top.  The reason is quite simple: The lower branches get much less light with a straight cut.  In the worst case, they become bare or stunted.  That's why the base of any hedge should be about 20 inches wider than the top.  Donate an additional layer of mulch to the soil under the hedge.  This favors the nutrient balance and pleases numerous microorganisms.

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No Need to Cut Roses in Fall

Older varieties of roses lay the flower buds already in the previous year and then unfold all their beauty only once - in early summer.  The problem is that the new shoots do not produce new flowers in the same year.  This means that they will not bear a single flower in summer if they are pruned as radically as roses that bloom more often.  Tip: Thin out such roses only slightly in spring so that the crown does not become too dense.

Prune Roses in Spring:

Be patient and wait to prune roses until no more heavy (night) frosts are expected.  So, about after the forsythia bush flowers have faded.  The 'eyes', i.e. the places where a rose can form side shoots, play an important role when pruning roses.  If you cut the shoot too close over an eye or side shoot, they could dry out.  What would be left behind - instead of a fragrant flower - would be an unsightly stub.  Therefore, place the scissors about five millimeters above the uppermost eye and cut the shoot at a slight downward angle.  This prevents water from collecting, which would provide a perfect breeding ground for pathogens.

For shrub roses, cut back to no more than half the shoot length.  Otherwise, long and unstable shoots will develop.  The procedure is different again for climbing roses.  Here, the previous year's shoots remain uncut and are only slightly thinned out. 

It’s also time to plant lots of bulbs for spectacular spring blooming.  Pay attention to the planting depth as listed on the packages.  Dividing perennials is a great way to make your beds fuller.  Lift plants carefully from the hole and shake off excess soil.  Remove any dead stems and foliage.  Separate the root system in half down from the middle, using two garden spades or forks or a sharp knife.  Replant in a new hole with fresh soil and water thoroughly.  If there is no rain during the next days, water these 'new' plants at least three times a week.

Keep pulling up the summer veggies as they ripen, and make room for fall crops, such as turnips, beets, onions, spinach, or Brussels sprouts.  Composting summer plants will improve your soil next spring.

Read more: 

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/bulbs/bgen/bulbs-for-shade-gardens.htm

https://biologicco.wpengine.com/blog/faq-how-to-kill-white-grubs-with-nematodes/

https://www.cbc.ca/life/home/how-to-prepare-your-garden-for-winter-1.6623540

https://www.npr.org/2022/10/25/1131114849/leaves-fall-autumn-compost-mulch-grass-lawn-nutrients

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Enchanting Shade Gardens

Shade gardens can be as lovely and even more interesting than sunny flower beds.  One of the advantages of deciduous shade trees for example is that many lovely flowers which require spring sun but summer shade will grow beneath them: Anemones, Trout Lilies, Shooting Stars, Trilliums, Bleeding Hearts, Foam Flowers, Primulas, Salomon's Seal, Goats Beard, Azaleas and Rhododendrons.  A great benefit is that flowers grown in shade last longer and maintain their colour intensity better than those grown in full sun, such as Heucheras or Hostas. 
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Another tips for very dark and dry shade areas: Get bright, light colored, large planters to place your flowers in, and if there is a fence or dark wall behind, decorate it with lots of mirrors or a white trellis.

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Nutritious Soil and Sufficient Water.
No matter where you garden - in shade or sun - your plants will only thrive when you feed them well with the right soil, compost and regularly watering, especially near or beneath trees and large shrubs. Trees take up all the moisture (even prevent rain to reach the soil) and nutrients, so there is nothing left for your attractive flowers if you don't soak the soil every other day. 

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What to Plant in Shade Areas?
Often there is not only light shade, but almost dark areas underneath a group of trees. Choose the lightest colors you can find in flowers and leaves, such as yellow or light copper Heucheras, white Bleeding Hearts, white or pink Astilbes, orange Azaleas, white, yellow or light pink Rhododendrons or the classic, white-blooming Hydrangeas.
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Find a long list of plants for for different types of shade for gardening zones 3 - 7 at Canadian Gardening  or at a former post of this Garden-Dream blog, including images of shade-loving plants.

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