Wednesday, May 15, 2024

One of the Biggest Scams on Lawns: Aerating

 


I always thought - and proofed it after I watched them for years - that these so-called ¨lawn-caring¨ lawnmower companies are overcharging.  But there is a subspecies that is even worse: Aerators - men who are offering to aerate your lawn for only $60 - $90.  Sounds not much, doesn’t it?  Well, it is a job mostly done in 15 minutes, which means an hourly fee of $240.  


Even subtracting the tools or the machine costs they use (often less than $100, usable at least 50 or 100 times) it is totally over-priced work. And everyone can do it, it doesn’t need any education - contrary to horticulturists, arborists, or garden designers. 


If garden owners think they ¨need¨ a lawn (aka dead land, or a moles and skunks heaven) and if they start it professionally, they use valuable lawn soil (NOT top soil) before they even sow grass seeds or roll their sod.  This humus-rich soil keeps the lawn healthy and might not get easily compacted. 






Weed-Picking Instead of Aerating

If weeds, especially dandelions, appear in the future, they can easily picked out - including their roots - with a special tool that lets you do it while standing.  The benefit:  your lawn will be automatically aerated through the little holes where the weed was before.  Don’t worry, these holes close after one or two weeks, especially when it rains. 




What Your Lawn Really Needs

In one word: Water.  Water your lawn twice a week for half an hour during hot summer weeks.


Start in early spring to clean up your lawn: Free it from split and other winter debris. Remove all the acorns, fir cones, and pine needles on the ground if you have oak trees or pines next to the lawn. Rake your lawn thoroughly to remove all dead grass pieces, twigs, and moss.


Over time, the grass gets old and needs to be replaced. Worn-out lawns invite weeds. Overseeding is a fast, inexpensive way to help bring your lawn back to its lush, green self.  Make a soil test (kits are available at nurseries or professional garden centers) and if the soil test indicates a low pH level fertilize first.  Starter fertilizers usually contain higher amounts of phosphorous.  Phosphorous helps with root growth whereas nitrogen will help with greening and top growth.




The best time to over-seed your lawn is in early fall when the soil is still warm but the air is cooler, and there are fewer weeds for new grass to compete against.  Also, diseases that attack seedlings are less active.  If you cannot over-seed in the fall, your next best time is the spring.  


Mow the lawn low.  Before over-seeding, you'll want to cut your grass shorter than normal. Don’t leave the clippings on the ground, rather bag them.  Carefully dig out all the weeds.  Never use any pesticides.  They are making dogs and cats sick, even worse for your children.  After mowing, rake the lawn to help loosen the top layer of soil and remove any dead grass and debris. This will give the grass seed easy access to the soil so it roots more easily after germinating. 

Rake in a thin layer of enriched soil over your lawn to help the seed settle in. Before you start your seeding or re-seeding project fertilize it.  Which type of grass seed you choose depends on your existing grass type. 




Fill up your spreader, adjust the setting according to the label directions, and apply.  The best time is short after a rain.  But still water the lawn thoroughly regularly, to keep the ground always moist for the first 2-3 weeks.  Later you can spread an iron product over your grass.  Without a reasonable amount of iron in the soil, your lawn becomes more basic in its pH, making it difficult for grass to take root. A lawn without the proper amount of iron can start to turn yellow and die off.  Iron helps also to keep weeds out of your lawn.


Depending on the soil test - or when moss is growing - lime your lawn in early or late winter when the grass is not growing.  Lime can also cleanse the soil, removing toxicities and infusing the ground with essential nutrients.  This often clears up common grass and turf issues, leading to a healthier and better-looking yard.  Made of limestone or chalk, lime's main component is calcium carbonate.




As you can see, all these lawn chores can be easily done DIY.  Sure, you can hire a lawn mower company, but they are just rushing through your yard.  Don´t expect that they are raking the lawn, or that they are digging out dandelions.  


I would change the lawn into beautiful blooming flower beds, or shrink its size at least.  This way you have less work, more pleasure, and save lots of money!  I have never met anyone happy with their green turf - but why then have a lawn in the first place?


Read also:

https://www.cbc.ca/life/home/the-case-for-leaving-the-perfectly-manicured-lawn-behind-1.6449477


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Tuesday, May 14, 2024

Create New Perennial Plants for Free


¨Do it yourself¨ are the magic words for a lush blooming garden through dividing. Experienced gardeners will barely ever purchase new flowers.  For them, it is sheer pleasure to make two or four plants out of one by dividing a mature plant.


After two or three years for some perennials, it is time to lift and divide flowers - not only to gain new plants but also to let the original one stay healthy and beautiful.  Sedums, Hostas, or Yarrows for example start to grow outwards instead of upright and build a bare spot in the middle of the plant. 


Not only to Save Money and Time

Not only do you get plants for nothing, but you also get new plants that you know will thrive in your soil. It also makes a great impression to have groups of the same flowers with the same color as just a single lone plant.  You even save time as you don´t have to browse through nurseries and garden centers.





Eco-friendly Gardening

Another benefit of plant-dividing is eco-friendly gardening: It helps to avoid new plant-growing issues such as saving energy, avoiding plastic pots and stickers, trucking the plants hundreds of miles, etc. 


Steps on How to Divide

The best time for dividing is in early spring before the leaves grow two inches high. Start with a plan where the new ones go and dig out planting holes.  Fill them with water and add a dash of fertilizer or even better: a handful of compost.  Prepare either a tarp or use a wheelbarrow to avoid excess soil on your garden path, lawn, or flower beds.

Dig out the mother plant and divide it with a sharp spade (or two forks, placing them back to back) into two or more pieces.  Plant the flowers, fertilize them, water them again, and add mulch around the new planting.  


Soon you will enjoy more healthy, blooming flowers and a lush garden. 


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